Because of this, many users find it beneficial to balance their intake and outake fans, focusing more on the direction they would like the airflow to travel. A negative configuration quickly exhausts heated air so it doesn’t stagnate.īoth pressure systems can succeed at creating an airflow channel, so your components stay cool. A positive configuration makes sure your components are always fed with fresh, cool air (which has the side benefit of pushing dust away from your computer). While there are proponents of both positive and negative pressure arrangements, there are also benefits to both. Because computer cases are not sealed, and the number and power of fans can be mixed, you’ll usually lean slightly one way or the other. Neutral pressure is when there is an equal amount of intake and exhaust. Negative pressure is created when there are more fans blowing air out than sucking in. Positive case pressure is when the fans are oriented to push more air into the case than out. When they are perfectly balanced, this is considered neutral pressure. The amount of fans you have blowing cool air in versus exhausting hot air out will create positive or negative pressure. This path causes the air to heat up as it travels, creating a cycle of cool air in, hot air out.Īnother important concept is case pressure. This channel should bring cool air across the CPU, GPU and other heat sensitive components and then exhaust out of the back and/or top.
CASES WITH GOOD AIRFLOW AND C PC
Generally, the goal of positioning fans in a PC case is to create an airflow channel from the right side/front of your case to the upper left/rear. The Fundamentals of Airflow and Case Pressure Of course, any time you are taking off your side panel to do something inside your system, be sure the system is powered down and unplugged. Removing the fan is just as easy: disconnect the fan from its power and RGB connectors, unscrew the fasteners, and you’re done. Then, connect the power cable to the matching fan header on your motherboard (and RGB header if your fan has customizable RGB lighting). Installation is as simple as inserting the fan into the case, lining it up with the mounting holes, and screwing in four fasteners to lock it in place. Every case supports certain fan diameters (usually 120mm and 140mm), so be sure to consult its documentation. Your case should have set mounting points on the front, rear, top, bottom, and sometimes even the sides. Installation: Installing case fans is very easy. Depending on the case fans you select, this can cost more than using fewer smaller fans but gives you some extra control over your PCs acoustics. Since multiple fans and those with larger blades can move more air, making these changes allows you to run them more slowly, lowering the total noise of your system. If you’re technical and have a computer that supports it (prebuilt systems oftend don't), you can even go into your system’s BIOS and create a custom fan curve to balance cooling performance with noise levels.Īnother option is to add more or larger fans to your system.
RPM is less important so long as the fan is able to move plenty of air without making your PC sound like a jet engine.
When shopping for case fans, look for the best balance of CFM and dB that fits your budget. If fan noise bothers you, try to aim for a fan below 30dB. A fan that spins exceptionally fast is likely to have a more powerful motor and to generate more vibrations that you’ll hear when using your PC. The higher the RPM, the more air it is likely to move however, these high speeds often come at the cost of noise, measured in decibels (dB). RPM, or Rotations Per Minute, is how fast a fan spins.
This number can range widely depending on fan size, RPM, and how it balances noise levels, but a “good” case fan will typically output upwards of 50 CFM. CFM, RPM and Noise: The volume of air a fan can move is measured in Cubic Feet Per Minute (CFM).
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